Climbing Mt Kinabalu

I remember my sons, who were then only ten to twelve years old, climbed Mt. Kinabalu with their father. Andre who was the younger boy did not make it to the summit because of altitude sickness. He was throwing up and had severe headache. However, Luc who managed to get to the top proudly showed off his colourful certificate.

Recently a man who was keen on me was promising me the world. I said that he must learn to climb trees if he loves cherries. He replied that he would even climb Mt. Kinabalu just for me. I was so flattered and impressed but only short-lived after he confessed that he would rather get there by helicopter.

 

It was impossible because it was available only for emergency. Somehow rather this conversation ticked event though I never dreamt of doing anything like it. I took the challenge and flew off to Kota Kinabalu accompanied by Luc who was so eager to climb it again.

We arrived in K.K at about noon from Singapore, checked into a two stars hotel which was pleasant and centrally located. While looking out through the window from our room we caught a glimpse of the Malaysian tourism office. We hurried there to secure our booking for the following day. At the office the staff were certain that it was impossible to climb without prior booking since they were limited rooms up at Laban Rata rest house. However they directed us to the handling agent in another building and there we waited for our turn.

Luck was with us as they were 2 last minute cancellation. We made all the necessary arrangement for the trip with Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (LotG15 Ground floor, Wisma Sabah .88300 K. Kinabalu Sabah.Tel: 088-243629/245742 Fax: 088-259552) and were so glad especially Luc or our four days trip would have been a big disappointment for him.

 At 7am the next morning we were already at the bus station waiting for our mini bus to be fill up with passengers. We arrived at the centre after a two-hour trip at a fare of only M$15 ringgit. I said to myself that this is a big joke on me when I saw the peak of the mountain from below. What on earth, it was so high up and how impossible to get there on foot! After we registered ourselves for accommodation up in Laban Rata (3273m) which was 6km away, our appointed guide Doina came to greet us and made us wear a tag around our necks. We jumped into a van that took us to Timpohon gate (4.5km away) and we set off for the trail


Doina was 45years old, storky with fat rounded calves. She advised me to go slow and easy. We took off with some other people and in no time there were out of sight. I was panting like a galloping horse and had to stop to catch my breath. Luc and Doina slowed down for me and were always by my side. I realised that the first km was really tough because my body was not adjusted to that kind of movement like climbing big steps on steep slopes. My heart was thumping so fast and my lungs were at the fullest capacity for air. After the first km I got the hang of it and I thought of nothing else but a step forward all the time no matter how hard or how often I needed to stop to catch my breath.

 Exotic plants and forest ferns that I had seen in books were everywhere along the trail. I caressed some wild orchids, even talked to giant elephant unfurling fern fronds and nicked a fern which I wore on my hair. I also come across a huge habitat of Nepentis Villosa (pitcher plant) of which some were sitting on the ground and some were dangling from branches and tree trunks and were all filled with water. The only birds I saw were tiny colourful sunbirds and many fat furry squirrels. They were scurrying up and down the branches hoping for a morsel from climbers. Fortunately mosquitoes, creepy crawlies like snakes, amphibians in general were not in sight because they didn’t like the cool climate. I was so glad that no one was allowed to pick anything from the well kept park. It was a wonder how awe- inspiring nature had given me so much positive energy to move forward. As we continued to ascend we met a lot of people who greeted us, encouraged us and also those who complained about the rain that was pouring down on them on their way up on the last day. It made the trail wet and slippery; creating more obstacles on the way. We finally made it to Laban Rata rest house 5 hours later at 4pm.There we had an early dinner and then off to our bunker beds in a room shared by two other people. Every one was sound asleep by 8pm only to be woken up in our heavy slumber at 2am to be ready for our final 3 hours ascent to the summit.(Low's Peak 4095m). It was dark and the trail was mainly of granite surface. Our only Chinese-made torchlight died on us and I fell into a rocky ditch. My left shoe come off and my pelvic bone and sheen hurt like hell. When I felt better I joined the rest of the people who had headlamps around their heads. I climbed all the way till I reached the summit at sunrise.

I could tell from our faces that we were proud, happy and inspired by this great feat. Digital cameras were clicking away at every cheerful molar to molar smiles. The orange sky seemed so low and the low temperature of 3 degrees didn't seem cold at all. We started to descend half hour later. In broad daylight I could see all kinds of green turfs growing out of crevices of so many beautiful rocks that looked like man made sophisticated Japanese gardens.

As I continued to descend I looked behind me and I wondered to myself if I had the courage to climb along those steep rocky surface by pulling on a rope had it not been in the dark. Doina said that most people would have been discouraged to continue had they seen the trail in broad daylight. In about 3 hours we were back at the rest house devouring our lousy breakfast. The sun was shining and we had changed to lighter clothing for our 6 km downhill which took us about 4 hours to complete. My legs were squidy and wobbly.

I have a lot of respect for people who are working as guides. porters, rangers and cleaners for a living. They all have fatty calves and mostly storky especially porters laden with 40kg of foodstuffs for the restaurant up in Labab Rata. They work 5 days week!

They are also almost inhuman athletes who run up to the summit during their annual event .The record breaking time of only 2 hours 49 minutes was championed by a Spaniard in 2007. I did it in 8 hours! Not so bad, just like everyone lah!.